Stumpwork embroidery

Stumpwork is a raised form of embroidery. It is created on one backing fabric and transferred to another, ‘ground fabric’. Through the use of wire, it becomes three-dimensional in contrast to flat embroidery.

The difficulty for anyone trying to create this type of embroidery is in visualizing the complete design. The software allows you to visualize all components of a stumpwork design in a single design window. At the same time, it lets you edit each piece individually and output to machine as needed.


Stumpwork scenarios

Stumpwork usually conforms to one of the following scenarios...

  • Generate stumpwork piece from existing embroidery.
  • Digitize stumpwork pieces from scratch with wirelines.
  • Digitize additional wirelines to lend support and shape.
  • Turn resulting pieces, including any addtional embroidery inside the border, into stumpwork 'sub-designs'.

Typical stumpwork

Most stumpwork involves the use of wirelines to provide body and shape to the raised object. The process involves first sewing a guidetrack within which to place the wireline. Next a tackdown is used to sew the wireline into position within the guidetrack. Finally cover stitching is added, usually satin.

Stumpwork components

Stumpwork consists of some or all of the following digitized components. Each is separated in the stitching sequence by a machine stop.

ComponentNotes
Stabilizing run 1This is internal to the stumpwork. It is not needed with wireline embroidery but may be required with other types. Stabilizing runs are used to reduce any deformation in the material prior to embroidery.
Embroidery borderTypical stumpwork makes use of a wireline but other borders may be used.
 StopIf you use wireline, all necessary stitching and stops are included to allow you to place and sew the wireline.
Stabilizing run 2This is external to the stumpwork. This is generally used to stabilize the fabric for cutting.
 StopChange to a cutting tool or cut stumpwork out by hand.
Cutting lineCurrently, a cutting line is automatically generated for cutting needles to follow.

Machine recommendations

Here are some recommendations for producing stumpwork on the machine:

  • When working with a stumpwork piece that has additional wirelines – such as a leaf with central veins – make sure the internal wires do not overlap the border.
  • Alternatively, cut the internal wires slightly short. This means that stitching can continue right up to the border, thereby avoiding unwanted gaps.